So I now have my actual physical license. You don’t even get the license the day you pass the test; they make you go back and spend five hours the next day. “Kafkaesque” isn’t quite right – Kafka’s bureaucracies were at least functioning, albeit slowly. This is just hell. But with this ordeal finally behind me I think I can bring myself to write a bit about my experience at the DMV.
First, let’s talk about the required paperwork. DMVs are notorious the world over for strict, unyielding documentation fetishes, but the Japanese DMV takes the cake. Required for your primary application is: your original foreign driver’s license (Texas, in my case); an officially notarized translation of the license to Japanese; your passport; your Alien Registration Certificate (gaijin card); a completed driver’s license application (available only at the DMV); special stamps showing that you’ve paid the 4200y application fee attached and stamped to the application (Japanese bureacracies love this one – they don’t accept money, they just accept special stamps purchased at an undisclosed location. 4200y cash – no. special registration stamp purchased for 4200y cash – yes!); an official application photograph (3 cm X 2.4 cm); an A4 sized copy of your driver’s license (front and back); an A4 copy of your passport (every page); and an A4 copy of your Alien Registration Certificate (front and back).
Of course, that’s just the documents they tell you about. There’s also the Secret Documentation, the stuff not on the website or the informative pamphlet, that you can only find out from someone else who’s taken the entire day off work, gone to the DMV with all required paperwork (or so they thought), only to be denied and turned away at the last moment. Secret Documentation includes: a B5 copy of your Alien Registration Certificate (front and back – yes, this is the same as above, just on different sized paper); your expired International Driver’s License; and, in some cases, your complete driving history. Many U.S. states only include the expiry date on the license itself; Japan wants to know the date that you received your licence – was it more than 6 months before you came to Japan? Guess this is to cut down on the number of people from going to Korea, getting a Korean driver’s license, coming back to Japan, and exchanging it. Which, up until a few years ago, was actually quite common – this should tell you something about the Japanese license application process.
So a month ago I took my paperwork in hand – well, in especially bought folder to keep it all sorted, took my day of paid leave, and took off for the Gunma Prefectural Driving Center. There is, of course, only one, in Shin-Maebashi. Shin-Maebashi is about 40 minutes by train from Kiryu station, and the center is about another 15-20 minute walk from Shin-Maebashi station. It is quite literally in the middle of nowhere – you walk past pens crammed full of sad-looking cows and horses on the path to the center. Welcome to Inaka, Japan – population: you.
They recommend you show up early your first day to take care of the first day paperwork. This was silly. I showed up at about 11:00 and went to the counter marked “Foreigner License Exchange.” Of course, this wasn’t the right place. The name, I suppose, is a trap for foreigners who think they’re hot stuff ’cause they can read some kanji. The morose woman at that counter sent me to another building, where I waited in line for about ten minutes only to learn – this is a recurring theme – that I had to go to another building and wait in another line. When I got there at 11:30, they were on break for lunch, very upset that I rang the bell to try to talk to them, and told me to come back at 1:00. So much for showing up early! I sat down by the bank of windows and started waiting
The application period for taking the driving test – for doing anything at the DMV, actually – is 1:00 to 1:30. That is not a joke. A half-hour window every day. They’re open until 5:00 (later, usually, as their slowness keeps people there for hours and hours), but all registration has to be done during that thirty minute time frame.
At 1:00, I started waiting in line at Window 3 to get an application form. When I reached the front, they told me to go to Window 7 to get the form. So I did, and waited, and got the form and filled it out and then waited in line at Window 7 to hand it to them. When I got to the counter again, they sent me back to Window 3 to purchase the stamps to go on the application form. So I did, and then I waited in line at Window 7 again to submit the application. I swear I am not making this up.
After turning in the form, you wait a while for them to call your number and check your documents. The man checking the documents is a stern, unhappy old man with a crew cut and large aviator glasses. I don’t think he likes his job. I don’t think he likes anything. He seems to believe that speaking louder and more quickly at foreigners will help them understand his angry, spitting Japanese. It’s not at all uncommon to have to leave your first time without even taking the test – documentation check is strict. Anyways, things were going well for me until we got to the Texas drivers license history. This is the complete history of my Texas driver’s license, including original issue date, expiry date, infractions (none!), etc, notarized by the Head of Driving Whatever and sealed and etc. etc. My brother went to pick it up in the office in Austin and Fed Ex’ed it to me. Anyways, this cruel old man looks at my Texas driver’s license and at my history and barks angrily, “When did you get this license!”
I point out on the driving history that I received my first hardship license on January 30, 1995, and my regular license on January 30, 1996, my 16th birthday.
“No good! No good!” he shouts. “When did you get THIS license!” He picks up my license and shakes it angrily at me. “This one!”
Of course, the history doesn’t have that information … when did I get that particular piece of plastic? Why would it ever matter to anyone? I’ve been licensed in good standing since 1996 … isn’t that enough? No, it’s not. Japan wants to know when I received the actual particular license I brought with me to Japan. I explain to him how Texas makes you renew your license each year until your 18th birthday, after which a license is given for 10 years. I show that with my birthday on January 30, 1980, that I was 18 years old on January 30, 1998. I point out that the expiry date of my license is 2008, so the math works out. Finally, I point out (politely, but firmly) that this notarized full driving history from the state of Texas was obtained at great personal cost and expense to myself and my family, and that this is sadly as good as it gets. There is no additional information the state is willing to provide.
“I see,” he says. “Please wait here.” He then takes the papers and disappears into the back room. Perhaps he was doing concentrated research into my claims to find out whether or not they were true. More likely, he was smoking a cigarette (or three) and complaining to his coworkers about how much he hates the people out there today, at the DMV, trying to get a license. A license! Anyways, after about ten minutes, he came back out, filled out a form, stapled all of the paperwork and xeroxes into two separate “packets,” and stamped it. “Okay,” he said. “You’re number 8.” So I was number 8. Time to wait, number 8.
Everyone has to take a physical (squeeze your hands, squat and stand) and an eye vision test. You also have to identify the traffic light colors, which was a bit of a bear; I’m mildly colorblind, and the test was specifically designed to frustrate me. Standard traffic lights are always positioned in the same top-to-bottom or left-to-right position. But the test light was just a single circle that lit up all three different colors. Well, I faked enough color vision to pass that section and moved on to: more waiting.
About 3:30, everyone in the room suddenly stood up and was herded into a large test room off to the side. About 150 people or so. We watched a video about safety, after which which point gloved young ladies with maps and license holders started pushing little carts up and down the aisles, asking people to join the Gunma Prefecture Safety Organization. I asked if I had to join, and they said yes, it was 2100y. I said that I had already paid to take the test today. They said, that’s great, but you need to pay here too. I was very confused what all this was about, so I paid them 2100y and got a Gunma safety map and official Safety Organization license holder. Hooray.
At this point, an instructor came in to fetch myself and a few other foreigners to tell us we were in the wrong room and needed to go to this other room over here. So we did. Of course, I never got my money back.
The written test was 10 true/false questions in bad Engrish. Everyone else was taking the test in bad Portuguese. Poltuguese? I dunno. When it comes to foreigners here in the Japan, Brazil rules, America drools. The written test’s questions were things like “It’s okay to go through a red light without stopping if you don’t see any other cars” and other equally inane things. 7/10 was passing. One poor girl failed the written test, but everyone else passed.
The driving test itself was about 4:30. Not really much to it – they have a fake track you drive around in a loopy circle while avoiding obstructions, speeding up to 50 km/h on a straightaway, stopping at stop signs, not hitting imaginary children at crosswalks, etc. etc. You sit in the back while the person before you drives, then you take the wheel. I did okay, but I didn’t stop far enough behind the line at stop signs. My excuse: my stupid little keicar has absolutely no nose, and the test car is a gargantuan boat that sticks out like three feet in front of the tires. Anyways, the creepy old man at the desk was running the test, and he stopped the car at one of the stop signs where the nose went over and just laid into me. “Can’t you see the front of the car! It’s over the line! That’s so dangerous! Don’t you understand? Don’t you understand!?” At which point I had to spend three minutes driving the rest of the circuit.
I wasn’t expecting to pass, especially not after the advice I got from the JET list:
“Listen to the guy tell you why you failed. (e.g. drove too fast – 20kmh!; were less than 2m away from the centre line; failed to wait 10 seconds at the stop sign; sitting posture was wrong; skin is wrong colour; etc) Wait in yet another line to be given your paperwork back and arrange another test date 3-10 weeks later. This person will tell you a different reason why you failed (e.g. your hands were placed wrong on the stearing wheel; your mother is not Japanese; he hasn’t failed his quota yet).”
“If it sounds like too much work, consider applying for Canadian or British or Australia or some other citizenship which doesn’t require the driving test. It may well be easier.”
So yeah, I failed. I probably deserved to fail, given my somewhat shoddy driving, but the test is designed to break you. Leaving Kiryu at 9:30 A.M., slodging through paperwork and bureacracy for hours, waiting and waiting and waiting and waiting and waiting, until finally, seven hours after you left the house that morning, you have three minutes to prove yourself. Is it any wonder I choked? At least I was in good company: out of the fifteen people who took the test, exactly two passed.
The two ethnically Japanese foreigners.
I don’t want to be levelling charges of racism here, honestly … I’m sure that taking the driving test at the DMV back home is an equally terrible experience, especially for foreigners. And I did quasi-botch the test. Even so, it was a nasty feeling in the pit of my stomach all the way home.
…
But yesterday, things went okay. The paperwork process was streamlined, thanks to the packets they had stapled beforehand. They seem to be well-equipped for multiple takers. Didn’t have to do the physical or the written test again. And the driving section went fine. I forgot to disengage the parking brake before pulling out (the person before me had set it, and I NEVER use the parking brake. I had this problem when Dave drove my car in college, too.) But I managed to stop nicely ten feet behind the stop lines, avoid the invisible children on the surprise school crossing just pass the bushes, etc. etc. Must’ve been something in the water; eleven of the fifteen takers passed.
Had to show up today to pick up my license. Yes, all the way to Shin-Maebashi, showing up at 1:00 to 1:30, etc. They managed to push me around, make me wait in lines, take my picture multiple times, try to trick me into paying them 2100y again, and fill out enough extra paperwork to keep me busy until 5:00. But I got my license.
God knows I got my license.
Postscript: While typing this up for yukihime, the hard copy list of required documentation managed to inflict me with a nasty paper cut. On my elbow, of all places. The wrath of the DMV is truly without end.